Saturday, June 23, 2012

The Makeup Show in Chicago, Artists, Career building, makeup techniques, products, and inspiration.

Chicago and The Makeup Show. It was incredible.
While I'm about to go into much detail about what I saw and learned, everyone's experience s unique, there are so many networking, workshop and seminar opportunities that my post should only make you hungry to go next year to travel to the next Makeup Show so you can take from it what YOU need. What I'm saying is- my sharing can't replace an experience of your own and if you find this info valuable, you have to go or you do yourself a great disservice in what you will miss.

For those unaware of this event: The Makeup Show is sponsored by The Powder Group (thepowdergroup.com) a group of professionals that organize various events, discounts and networking. Member Michael DeVellis created The Powder Group and organizes The Makeup Show in its multiple locations. He also works with Makeup Forever and is absolutely charming. I witnessed him in a verbal altercation and was so impressed by how disarming and totally-not-fazed he was by this woman throwing attitude at him. I thought: What kind of makeup makes your skin that thick? ;)

I got to hear him speak at a seminar about the multi-purpose MUFE Flash Palette-The Artist Advantage: Mastering the Flash Color Palette –Brittany James for Make Up For Ever. With my distaste for FD&C colors and parabens, I have not purchased the Flash Palette since it contains them, but it is a useful artist's tool and if I were to have jobs it required and couldn't find a high enough quality alternative (unlikely) I would invest in it and trust the result and a protective moisturizer underneath it to not be too concerned. The literal paint of makeup. I watched Brittany James use outstanding basic color theory and mixing to turn these brightly colored creams into a full face of foundation, blush, eyeshadow, liner, lipstick, concealer, and highlight.

I attended a Keynote Forum: Industry Insight – Hosted By James Vincent
Panelists- Crystal Wright, Maurice Stein and Michael DeVellis
James Vincent
(jamesvincentmakeup.ne) was so attentive and kind as he supplied mic needs to those asking questions and pitching in with tidbits and comic relief. I wish I had caught his other seminars and met him formally.Crystal Wright is the definition of a true professional. She wrote the book on it. Literally. I intend to buy it, but had already allotted my budget at the show. For those interested in the industry bible, I'm told this is it. http://www.crystalwrightlive.com/books-a-dvds.html Crystal herself is elegant, beautiful and no-nonsense, the very image of professionalism. I look forward to learning more about and from her.
Highlights I jotted down from the Forum:

When introducing yourself,
speak clearly, slowly, and pause between first and last name
, so you are memorable, not a jumble. If you have a difficult name, be proud of it and empower others to pronounce it correctly. As long as you do this kindly and without frustration or patronization you are making your identity important to those you are talking to and they are more likely to remember and respect you.
These days in America and most 1st world countries, your
virtual presence is a must. This means that a website and E-comp cards might be more important than tangible ones, though a physical/hard portfolio is still recommended and necessary for many professional situations.

I held onto my first come first serve seat and waited for the next Keynote Forum.
The Trip of a Lifetime – Billy B’s Career GPS  (billybbeauty.com). Billy B is the genius responsible for Lady Gaga's evolving look from the Fame Monster Album cover to the Born This Way music video, and made his name in other music videos. He is so humble and grateful for his success, while being and making us completely aware of the fickle nature of success.
I thoroughly enjoyed this forum, had emotional ups and downs, made new friends, and even stood to ask him questions directly that afternoon.

Here's what meant a lot to me:
Your realities will limit your goal potential. You can't compare your "success" to that of others. Gauge your own victories by your own expectations.
Stick with what works. This applies everywhere, Products, portfolio images, rates, clients, etc... I'm sure it doesn't mean not to take calculated risks, but don't make your career more vulnerable than is necessary when your consistency and income is at stake in a big way.When offered many projects, value your time and energy. Don't get bogged down and burnt out trying to take them all. Weigh the benefits. Benefits can be monetary, publicity, or feed your passion. All of those things are necessary.
The passion is what drives your creativity. For many artists  like Billy B and myself the passion is avante garde work that doesn't get you hired, but feeds your creativity so select projects for free or less money are worth your time.
The publicity drives  your career. Most music videos and magazine covers don't pay anywhere close to commercial or event work. That's because of demand and value- endless many people would love to do it for free, to get the credit and publicity. These jobs don't pay the bills but make you known and more likely to be hired elsewhere.
Monetary- self explanatory. Paying your bills as a makeup artist is most easily done with counter consulting, bridal and commercial work until one is teaching or being hired for large campaigns, movies or celebrities. This work may be tedious or repetitive and is not always what you love about makeup but it is necessary to make this your full-time work.

In this vein we also got the advice to learn hair in the Midwest for bridal and other work as it is expected and valuable. You may need to do this to make a living and name, even if "it makes you feel like a dirty whore". His words, not mine.

If not a possibility he suggested teaming with a stylist, bringing them along and cutting them in.
You can see that this was a very fun, useful and open forum. He had a lot of valuable info for new artists that struck home with me. I had articulated my uneasiness about some of these things and now feel much more confident.

Learn restraint, but don't compromise your style/brand. As in any artist, the masters know the negative space is most important and it is so with makeup also. New artists may have talent, but feel the need to prove themselves with each face and will pull out every trick at once, instead of letting the right artistic element shine. While the tricks may be great, they don't always add up to good taste. Developing style has much to do with this.
He talked much of Kevyn Aucoin, his longtime MUA inspiration. When faced with a decision he thought "Would Kevyn do this?". He urged us all to find a like minded inspirational artist with similar style and goals. I will now adopt a new motto. What Would Billy B. Do?

When relating to clients his advice was to keep it comfortable and professional. Sounds obvious but more specifically, if I may paraphrase:
"The best thing you can do for your client is to be the best makeup artist for them that you can be. Not their therapist, saint, or best friend." It will only make the working relationship less objective and harder to negotiate business decisions. Likewise when working with regular clients, continue to build those and all working relationships, but don't put all your eggs in one basket. You never know when a job will fall through, and you can't let it collapse your confidence or business. Let it go. Accept that you did your best, or if you didn't- learn from it and move on.

I got to hear a lot about agents and was glad to since I have never met with one. Most of the artist I heard speak said they preferred it since they didn't like talking money, and left it to a professional. Billy B made clear that an agent does not equal success or more frequent work. They are part of YOUR team and work for you, not the other way around.

Speaking about portfolios we were advised to have 12-20 strong marketable, hopefully timeless images. In this day and industry that means clean beauty and perhaps some glamour. Avante garde will never sell you as an artist for a large paying job in most areas of the industry.
When testing, aim for 2-3 useful images. In the world of testing or "trade" (TFP, TFCD for you modelmayhem-ites) a test should be a team effort. Do not test endlessly while the photographer is being paid for the shoot. Negotiate your own rates as many photographers are charging clients for your services above what they have agreed to pay you and are pocketing the trimmings. Not to sat that all photographers take advantage, but it's been known to happen and just shows the importance of managing your own business.
While negotiating rates can be frustrating and uncomfortable it can't be avoided if you want to work.
If you want the project and are flexible in your rate for the opportunity suggestions when approached for projects were:
"My rate is $__ for half and __ for full day. What is your budget?" Or simply: "Is there a budget for makeup?" Otherwise don't be scared to give your rate, no matter the reaction. Sticker shock or angry reactions are either a result of a non-professional who doesn't understand your value or are a shady haggler type. You probably don't want to waste your time with anyone whose ego and entitlement gets in the way of a standard business negotiation as long as you know you are in a reasonable range for your quality and area. So do research, make inquiries, be fair, let your work and not prices, compete with other artists.
What I've learned, myself, from endless industry forums is to find the reasonable rate for your caliber or desired caliber work based on location and rate accordingly. Extreme rate-cutting, discounts, and price gouging of other artists will only get you blacklisted and prove to clients that our job is worth less. The correct way to charge for event and photography makeup is to have a half (4 hours or less) and full day rate (8 hours and possibly more). Typically a full day rate is not higher than 2 half day rates combined. For some this is in the low, medium, high hundreds and for Billy B and his caliber- a few thousand.
Artists that charge by the hour or by look or number of faces for this type of makeup or demand a kit fee are usually not well educated professionals, since they have not networked and researched enough to know the industry standard. Kit fees are sometimes used for special effects and TV since they require so much on-site product use.
Testing means that both parties invest their time and effort equally, supplies are their own responsibilities and no money is expected to change hands unless otherwise agreed upon. Travel may be negotiated, but is not always expected to be included unless you are being formally hired for a large or out-of-state job as far as I understand (learning more about this).
I mentioned Billy B's humility. He acknowledge that he has assistant, sees Youtube Gurus and other artist that are more skilled than him. He insists his blessing are just that. A successful makeup career is a result of luck and dedication with about 35% talent. His last words were to be in a place that allows the luck to come to you. Create a luck friendly environment so the ups and downs can run their course. 

 With the incredible Billy B (http://billybbeauty.com)! Also check out newly whitened teeth by http://www.absolutelywhite.com wonderfully set off by OCC Lip Tar in Vintage.




I can't finish talking about Billy B without mentioning that he admired my makeup and look specifically. I wanted to explode with happiness. He and so many artists I met at the Show were bursting with warmth and encouragement. I received validation and made connections that warmed my heart and strengthened my committment and dreams. It was an invaluable experience for me, but for anyone wondering- tickets to both days was only about $65.
At this forum I was fortunate to be seated near
Jacqueline Teague Vivolo (www.teaguevivolo.com  and http://www.facebook.com/pages/Teague-Vivolo-Make-up-Artistry/149142408430840. you can also follow her twitter @teaguevivolomu and find her on MM#1672284. She is an inspiring and artist and kind of just grabbed me and pulled me under her wing, to my delight. She is already a valuable friend and resource and I must thank her for that. I can also now think WWTVD?
Other new friends with impeccable work and who you would be privileged to follow or hire:
who has amassed a brush collection to drool over and was sweet as can be!


I chose and paid to attend "Perfecting the Canvas" by Kathy Aragon. It focused on perfecting skin for events, TV, and photography and the necessary distinction. There was no focus on eye or lip makeup, but everything else, which is where the quality of an artist perhaps shows the most.
This was my class of choice since I focus a lot on eye makeup, brows, and find lips simple, but have not gathered oodles of foundations or other skin products yet, and wanted to know how to grow usefully in that direction. The skin quality is the gauge of quality for makeup artists, since it requires the most techniques including: sculpting with highlight and contour, color correction and concealing of blemishes, under eye circles, and other inconsistencies, using bronzer responsibly, paying attention to body skin continuity and creating appropriate coverage for the model and purpose.

Kathy was warm and casual and invited questions at all stages. She had many product and tool recommendations. I will try to piece together my info appropriately.
I went nuts over OCC Lip Tar the moment I got my hands on them on the floor, then in the workshops she showed us how to use them as cheek stains. Just work fast and with a tiny (and I mean pinhead) amount at first since they are so pigmented.

I learned a little contour trick which is starts with a swirl at the ear and then blend along the hollow. A highlight trick is that the top of the brow and hairline have about 2 finger widths as do the top of the cheekbone and eye on most people, so there is plenty of room to highlight and those spaces do not need to be filled with it. The lower finger under the eye will highlight the cheekbone and the first finger above the brow will highlight effectively without getting into the hairline.
She had many tips and much praise for the original Beauty Blender used damp with foundation. Favorite foundations: Face Atelier and MUFE HD, blended with Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancers for more coverage.
Color matching tips for speed: If you think the color might be a shade too dark test it in your contour area, too light test in a highlight area or under the eye so they can be blended and enhance instead of needing to be cleaned off.
For fast face work, a double ended brush was recommended like a foundation/conceal duo from Crown.
The most common color correction is a peach/salmon undereye concealer to cancel blue undertones. Eve Pearl and Joe Blasco for higher coverage were recommended. These are also useful for toning down 5 o clock shadow in men's grooming.
HD powders are typically made form silica and have been mysterious to me. I got the lowdown- don't set a whole face with this and a brush, just use a puff to take the dewiness from T-zone so you don't pack it in and create a whiteout.
We got lots job-specific tips like not using mineral, spf, sparkle or heavy shimmer for event/bridal where flash will distort the effect. Much the same for TV, keep highlight in your foundation or matte powder..
Flexibility for blush brushes are useful or a fan for a light touch. MUFE and KA were recommended for excellent blushes.

 Practicing makeup on the lovely Vanessa from www.nightingalebeauty.com in my makeup from the Perfecting the Canvas workshop by Kathy Aragon (kathyaragon.com). She is wearing MUFE Face and Body foundation, OCC Lip Tar and various highlighter, concealer, contour, bronzer and blush.

We then paired and practiced on each other. Vanessa from www.nightingalebeauty.com was flawless already but I was proud of the natural face and orange lip I put on her. I also got the chance to ask Kathy a nagging question: Was the quality of my current brush set holding me back. She led me straight to BDellium brushes (http://bdelliumtools.com/) and the next day I purchased a green 15 brush set at a very reasonable price. They are vegan, cruelty-free, hypoallergenic synthetics with sustainable bamboo handles. Can't wait to use them. I definitely needed them since natural bristles are very absorbent and likely to roughen over time.

So while I gave much info here, again I will say that what I learned from the demo and practice was invaluable and to have such an amazing artist available to answer questions and help me bring my personal techniques to a new level was well worth the trip and workshop price and I highly recommend the experience and learning from Kathy Aragon.

Aside from these intensive learning experiences I also was in heaven at all the booths. I swatched every canary yellow and royal purple eyeshadow I could find and MUFE was the most pigmented. I listed all my favorite OCC Lip Tars for my wishlist and loved seeing CoverFX products in action. There was an amazing deal on MUFE HD foundations that I wish I could have afforded to take advantage of, since I only work with RCMA creams right now and want to add a good silicone base line. I was ready to take home OCC NSFW and A Kevyn Aucoin Highlight/Contour Duo and fate snatched them from me, so they go back on the wishlist. I learned how to better use my Smashbox cream liners with a smaller longer brush and tested some lovely subtle highlighters there. Had an awesome time making eyes with Harry at Grande Lash (www.grandlash.com) and giggled during my teeth whitening. I got to watch amazing bodypaint demos both days and am still looking into the awesome hair product at
www.ajessalon.com.
www.Bloom.com and www.beautylish.com are a makeup artist or enthusiast networking and inspiration headquarters. Professional membership with www.naimies.com and the Powder Group as mentioned are highly recommended for discounts and education.
I may be editing this as I get more permission to post shoutouts and details. Questions and comments are welcome and I hope I will see you all at the show next year!



Day 1 Loot:

Handy MUFE bag and magnetic palette (http://www.makeupforever.com). Lashes, plastic mascara wands, and Lash Duo Glue from . OCC Lip Tar in Interlace, Lower lash wands and lip wands from Dante Disposables (http://www.dantedpstore.com).
Day 2 loot(not pictured):
BDellium 15 brush set, MUFE small artist handheld palette,and a spatula from Naimies and personal teeth whitening touch up kit.



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